My Spa Guy

Wants to be Your Spa Guy

We are here to help! Purchase your parts through us and get FREE Tech Call to our Support Experts for advice on installation


We Specialize in 

Spa and Hot Tub Troubleshooting


Learn about Common problems and their solutions below.


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(888) 697-7248 is 888-My-Spa-Guy


Our 72 hour Service Pledge applies in the following Cities

Charleston - Columbia, South Carolina

Roanoke, Virginia all the way South to Winston Salem, North Carolina

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My Spa Guy was created to offer repair service in the South East

Call us at 888-My-Spa-Guy

We pledge to help you obtain the best parts at the best possible price and have it done with the finest service we are able to provide.  If you feel our service technicians have not provided great service please let us know.  All persons that submit a testimonial and provide us with detailed feedback regarding our service will be entered into a drawing wherein we will pick one person quarterly for first place and one person for second place. 


Please submit feedback if you are unhappy to Feedback and It will be resolved. 


Your satisfaction is our goal. Our Technicians pay is directly linked to your satisfaction; which places your satisfaction- their top priority.

Call My Spa Guy so you can appreciate truly professional service. 


With our advanced state of the art equipment, we can diagnose and repair spas anywhere.

I am having problems with my spa - what should I do?


Nothing on the spa operates
1. Check the control panel display for any messages. If there is a message, refer to the diagnostic section on that model spa. There you will find the meaning of the message and what action is to be taken.
2. If there is no message on your control panel, check and reset the GFCI* and house breaker. (*The GFCI should be located in a weatherproof box within sight of the spa, but no closer than 5 ft.)
3. If the spa does not respond, contact us.
Pump(s) do not operate
1. Press the “Jets” button on your control panel.
If you hear the pumps trying to operate:
A. Check that all the slice valves are open.
B. Pump may need to be primed.
C. Check that the air controls are open.
If you do not hear anything from the pump, contact us.
Poor jet performance
1. Make sure pump is operating.
2. Check that the water level is adequate (up to minimum safe water level side).
3. Make sure the jets are open and the air controls are open.
4. Check for dirty filters. Clean if necessary.
Spa not heating
* If the spas heater has failed, the majority of the time it will trip the GFCI breaker. If the spa is not heating and has not tripped the breaker, please follow these steps:
1. Check the control panel for diagnostic messages. (Refer to your spa models diagnostic message area in the owners manual.) Follow steps to alleviate message.
2. Check water set temperature at control panel.
3. Check for dirty filters. Clean if necessary.
4. Check “heat mode” the spa is set in. Spa should be in standard mode.
5. Check the control panel for heater light indicator and/or thermometer icon. If the light is on or the indicator icon is moving, the spa should be heating. Wait a reasonable amount of time (approximately 1 hour) to see if the water temperature is changing.
6. Check to make sure that the pump is primed and all slice valves are open.
7. Reset power to the spa at GFCI breaker.
8. If spa is still not heating, contact us for service.
GFCI is tripping
The Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is required, by NEC code (National Electrician Code), for your protection. The tripping of the GFCI may be caused by a component on the spa or by an electrical problem. Such electrical problems include, but are not limited to, a faulty GFCI breaker, power fluctuations, or a miswire. It may be necessary to contact us to come out and correct this issue.

Link to Manual Downloads
of Spa Manufacturers

Water Issues & Solutions




Cloudy water

Excessive organic contaminants or lack of sanitizer

Shock treat with non-chlorine shock and adjust sanitizer level

Dissolved chemical solids

Use clarifier to help remove small particles

pH balance or total alkalinity is incorrect

Test total alkalinity and pH. Correct with pH increaser or pH decreaser.

Calcium too high (hard water)

Use a sequestering agent weekly. Replace some water with softer water.

Dirty filter

Clean filter with filter cartridge cleaner.

Chalky, white scale deposits

Mineral deposits in water

Use a sequestering agent. Check water balance and adjust as necessary.

Clear green water

High iron or copper content

Use a sequestering agent

Cloudy green water

Low alkalinity level

Use pH increaser

low sanitizer level

Test sanitizer level, shock with non-chlorine shock

Brown water

High iron or manganese level

Use a sequestering agent

Chlorine odor

Chloramines (combined chlorine level) is high.

Shock with non-chlorine shock

Eye/skin irritation

Organic contaminants, chloramines, or pH out of balance

Shock with non-chlorine shock. Test and adjust pH level.


High concentration of chemicals due to evaporation and build-up of body oils, cosmetics and other contaminants

Use foam reducer. Shock treat with non-chlorine shock. Use enzyme reducer weekly as part of regular maintenance

Pitting of metal fixtures

pH too low

Test and adjust pH and total alkalinity by adding pH up.

Total alkalinity too low



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This is very different from "it's getting a little bit warm". It could have the same cause, but a heating element is like a light bulb, it either works or it doesn't. If there's absolutely no heat the first thing to test is the heating element. IS IT GETTING ELECTRICITY? (Hint, if you have a 240v heater, you must test for 240 volts directly at the two terminals of the heater. Testing from one terminal to ground will give a proper reading even if the element is bad).


The element is getting electricity.


If the element is getting electricity the next test is an amp test. If you don't know how to perform an amp test "call a qualified spa technician. Generally, a 120v heater should pull 12.5 amps and a 240 volt heater should pull 25 amps. If you're getting proper amperage draw, move on to "it's getting a little bit warm", below. If you're not getting any amperage draw, you have a bad heater element.

A perfect match is not always possible, and some differences are just fine. Some of the acceptable differences are;


  • Difference in physical length. A shorter element is ok, as long as the other specifications match up. A longer element may not fit the existing housing.


  • Slight difference in kilowatt rating. A difference in "kw" rating of 1/2kw is perfectly acceptable. Frequently, a 6kw element will be replaced with a 5.5kw element.

The two most important things are;


  • The element attaches to the heater housing must be the same (some unusual or obsolete elements may require a different element along with an adapter). If your heater element is threaded, the picture below should give some guidance on sizing and measuring for replacements.


  • The voltage rating must be the same. An element rated for 120v only, cannot be used in place of a 240v element, however, an element rated for 240v can generally be use in place of a 120v element.

    The element IS NOT getting electricity
    If the element is not getting any power. Using the volt meter, start at the heating element and follow the wiring back until you find the switch or relay that isn't allowing electricity to pass through. If power for the element is fed through a relay and the relay isn't closing, it then must be determined why, or what switch is preventing it. The next step is to determine if the switch is truly bad, or if it's just doing it's job (a high limit switch may be cutting off due to some other problem that's causing the water at it's sensing point to over heat).

    Some of the many possibilities for a good switch to appear broken are (and the apparent culprit);
    Low water flow (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
    A dirty filter (hi-limit, pressure switch or thermostat)
    A clogged tube feeding a pressure switch (pressure switch)
    Magnetic door interlock misaligned (door interlock)
    Heating element shorting out into the water (GFCI tripping)

    If all of this doesn't seem to make sense, you feel you need a lot more information or you don't feel comfortable in attempting this type of diagnosis or repair, "call us" and we will give you free tech help as long as you purchase the parts from us. Since we match any price on the same item, how can you go wrong? 888-697-7248.




    No heat

    Tripped hi-limit switch

    Locate and reset by turning set screw counterclockwise.

    Open doors on spa cabinet

    Close the doors.

    Pilot light went out

    (gas heaters)

    Relight pilot light as per owners manual.

    Pump isn't pumping any or enough water

    Call MySpaGuy to Determine problem and repair (see section on pumps and filters).

    Heater cycling on and off continuously.

    Dirty filter

    Clean filter cartridge, if in doubt try running the system with the cartridge removed.

    Low water level in spa

    Raise water level to at least one inch above filter cartridge.

    Takes a long time to heat spa.


    Dirty filter

    Clean filter cartridge, if in doubt try running the system with the cartridge removed.

    Daily filtration and heating cycle not running long enough

    Reset time clock or set filtration cycle to run longer (f6 runs 6 hours for heavy use / f4 runs 4 hours for moderate use/ f2 runs 2 hours for minimal use. Depending on spa some cycle twice every 24 hours.

    Damaged Insulating cover

    Many spas, especially 120 volt electrically heated wont heat up without a proper cover. Repair or replace.

    Bad thermostat

    Call 888-MySpaGuy to replace if necessary.

    Hi-limit switch turning off heater prematurely

    Call 888-MySpaGuy to replace if necessary.

    Pilot goes out (gas heaters)

    Weak pilot generator

    Replace pilot generator or assembly.

    Restricted pilot

    Clean pilot.

    Outer jacket very hot (gas heaters)

    Soot on heat exchanger

    Determine cause of soot, clean and correct (the most common reason for this is too much water flowing through the heater caused by either too large a pump or internal heater parts damaged).

    Improper venting

    Follow recommended installation instructions.

    Insects or debris clogging the burner intake ports

    Clean burners.

    Leaking at heater

    Improper water chemistry

    Determine exact location and cause of leak, replace damaged parts and maintain proper water chemistry.

    Harmonics, whining or banging noise

    Debris or restriction in system

    Locate the restriction and remove.

    Low flow

    Determine problem and repair

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    Posted by akiracooley on 04/19/2009 These guys are great! I called on Thursday and was in my spa on Friday. David was very knowledgeable, and helpful. The service is good and their prices are very reasonable, so overall, i have no complaints. Thanks guys, I highly recommend you! Thanks, Joe Bush

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      There may be additional fees for areas outside of these service areas but not significant, just enough to cover our costs incurred in going out there. Since our trucks are stocked with most commonly replaced parts, we can typically complete repairs within one trip.

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